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Haida Gwaii - What Waits for me There?


August 13th, 2018

Took my time getting up and going this morning as I am heading to Prince Rupert to board a BC Ferry to Skidegate, Haida Gwaii (formerly known as Queen Charlotte Islands)! Haida Gwaii was the original name for these islands, by the Haida Nation that have lived here for centuries. It was named Queen Charlotte Islands in 1787 after the ship of a fur trader. The Haida Nation literally returned that name to the crown in 2010 by writing on a piece of paper and placing it in a traditional bentwood box, handed it to the British Columbia Permier in an official Giving Back the Name Ceremony. The ancient name of Haida Gwaii means Islands of the People.

The ferry leaves at 10pm, but I must be there no later than 8pm as the gate closes and there are no exceptions to getting in. A special note: when I was talking to the lady at the Information Center in Terrace, she recommended to not only book right away for trip to Haida Gwaii, but to also book a return. Well, this was great advice as some people were stuck on the island longer than they had planned. To try to get off earlier, they had to go in a line up for stand-by.

After I got packed up I made my way to Terrace Information Center and worked on my blogs … don’t know when I will have the chance to do this again.

About 1pm I made a stop at WalMart and got extra groceries, stopped for ice and refilled the propane tank. The tank only required 6lbs out of 20! I used the tank almost every day and used approximately 25% of the tank in 6 weeks! I am very happy about that.

Got on the road and bee-lined it for Prince Rupert. It was approximately 1.5 hours drive [158km]. This town looks quite interesting and when I return, I shall spend a day looking around. You can smell the salt air … funny the little things we miss.

Got onto the ferry and now waiting to go. The ferry did not leave until 12:30am. I did not bother to book a room, and I didn’t think to bring my mattress up to lay on the floor which would have been ideal. Got some pics edited and had a rough sleep, but no worse for wear. LOL

August 14, 2018

The ferry landed in Skidegate by 5:30am and off the ferry by 6a.m. I headed to Tlell to find a campsite for fear they would fill up quickly. Besides, nothing would be open for a few hours and I was quite tired. After driving about half an hour, I landed into Naikoon Provincial Park at Misty Meadows Campground. There were a couple spaces opened so I grabbed one, got tent set up and went to sleep for a few hours.

Around 10am, I got up and had breakfast then headed back to Skidegate. I stopped in Haida Heritage Centre to see what time they have the 1.5 hour orientation in visiting Gwaii Haanas (compulsory to do before can go here). After getting the information, I found out that most of the trips are booked full, especially where I wanted to go. The lady told me that I could contact them and be placed on a waiting list. I was sure disappointed and should have known better.

I went to the information center and talked to them to get more information about Gwaii Haanas, but they shared that most of the tours were booked full and the one I wanted was definitely booked.

I headed to the library and checked on line. I sent an email to the main company and they placed me on their waiting list. I don’t feel confident that I will get this, but I will stay positive.

Back at the campsite, I paid for my site ($18.00 per night) and the host returned saying that a camper around the corner just came back from the beach and encountered a black bear! I waited until he left and I grabbed my camera gear to check it out … no bear. Darn. LOL

August 15, 2018

This morning, I checked the tide to determine what time I would head out for a hike to the shipwreck Pesuta. Pesuta was a log carrier vessel that ran aground in a foul storm in 1928. All but four of the vessel crew had died. This hike was over 10km round trip and mostly level.

I was the only person at the site at 10:30am when I had arrived. I took a great deal of photo’s and then went towards the forest to try to find the other piece of the ship that I read about. I saw a deer (doe) in a small field and watched it go around behind me out of site. I walked up to the top of the dunes, but did not see any other section.

Just as I turned around, a fawn was walking in my direction. I stayed perfectly still and it came almost right up to me, eating grass. It eventually turned around and started to walk back. At first, I just watched it … one of those special moments. Then I slowly pulled out my phone and did a little video. Once it got a little further, I pulled out my good camera and snapped a few photo’s.

I walked underneath a spruce tree cover and I continued to look for the other vessel. I walked around to where the doe was in the small field. I looked up to see the fawn staring right at me … I was able to get some great shots of it staring at me. LOL

I couldn’t find the other half of the vessel, so I walked back down towards the beach and there were some people heading towards the shipwreck. Once I got off the dune, I looked the opposite way and thought I saw what looked like part of a ship. I walked over to it and sure enough it was the other piece of the vessel. It was not in the woods, but about 100 yards from the bow of the boat. You can’t see it from the first piece because most of it is buried under the sand or has rotted away. You can just see the wooden shape above the sand level. Funny, how I looked everywhere, but the most obvious place. HaHaHa

I headed back to the vehicle and saw a few eagles and a sea otter on my way back. I also took a few nature pics. I just love when you think a tree is dead and see new life in it or on it. :)

I headed back to the campsite, had lunch and then drove to Queen Charlotte (the community). On the way, I stopped to take a few pics of the Balance Rock now that the tide was out. A little different than the one in Digby Neck, NS, but it was still a nice stop. They believe that it was set this way from the last Glacier retreat.

I stopped in at the library to see if I got any messages for going to Gawaii Haana … none. I read about another company that will take you when you want to go. It turned out that they fly you to a small village and then take a boat to the site … it cost over $3,000.00!!!! Nope, not that excited about doing it.

I was a little hungry after the hike so was making my way back to the campsite. I noticed a large group of eagles flying overhead so I found a pull-out and stopped. I took a walk down a short path to the beach and to my surprise there were two eagles on the beach and four up in a tree. I quickly made my way back to the truck and got my camera gear. After staying here for about two hours I got a few nice pics … I just can’t get enough of those eagles. LOL

Yes, it was another wonderful day!


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