Took our time today getting up and basically thought we would take it easy. Instead, after working out our days, it was decided that we should rent a car for two days to cover all the sites we wanted to see … that is if the car rental places are open on Sunday. Went down Main Street and visited the 3 Car Rental places that our host recommended. They all had different prices, but we found a company we were comfortable with. We rented the 4X4 Jimmy in the afternoon and headed out to see the sites. The main road that loops around the island is approximately 50km to do the entire loop, so we took our time to see the sites.
We started by the airport at Vinapu Moai site and worked our way up the coastline to Tongariki. We were informed that Tongariki was the best place to go for sunrise photo’s and decided that this would be a great place to start tomorrow morning. There were a huge number of sites that we stopped at along the way. It seemed that after every half a km we would stop to see a Moai or an archaeological site.
Vinapu Moai was one of the few Moai that had the face upwards and can still see a great deal of detail.
It was nice that the odd stop had something completely different. For example, at Pu o HIro, otherwise known as Hiro’s Trumpet was a stone with holes in it. According to the sign, “it was considered, in ancient times, a talisman for fishing.” They used to blow in the holes and it would make a sound that would bring the fish to the coastline. It was also considered a war trophy and often carried from one end of the island to the other.
Not far from here was another site called Papa Vaka, Petroglyph “Rock Art”. Much of the petroglyphs on this site represented water life and is considered to have the largest petroglyph on the island (over 12 meters long).
At one complex that was quite large we stopped at, Ahu Uranga Te Mahina and Ahu Akahanga. I got dropped off at the one gate and Charlie drove up to the other gate. We then met half way and he passed me the keys. I was walking up to the gate where the jeep was parked and got asked to see my ticket which I happily showed. The lady took it to the booth and told the young guy something in Spanish. He then asked me how I got in. I told him at the other gate and my brother drove up to this gate and dropped off the vehicle. He placed an “X” on my paper. I asked him what that was for. He stated that he appreciated my honesty and that they did not have any signs on the other gate, but that I should not have entered that way. He said the “X” was so that if I get another mark they would be watching me closely. I didn’t think that was right, but didn’t say anything and just chatted with him. Next thing you know he is giving me a tour of the upper section of the site. He informed me that you can only go on here with a guide. He told me about the kitchens and how they are between the homes and the Moai and face the Moai to give thanks for the food each day.
The home entrances face the Moai to give thanks to the ancestors. He took me up to a cave that was a dwelling and showed me the traditional entry and how you would have to crawl into the dwelling on your hands and knees. He stated that if you were not welcomed in your home, the first thing that is exposed when you enter is your neck and they would kill you. So glad that we don’t have to enter homes on hands and knees today. LOL
I asked what happened that so many Moai are laying face down, thinking it was vandalism. I was quick to learn that at one time there was over 25,000 people inhabiting the island and with a lack of food a civil war broke out. The winning tribe would knock over the Moai at that time.
Well, it does pay to be kind, even if you don’t agree with that “X” as I got an excellent tour and some great information about the site. The lad informed me it was his first English tour that he has done. I was truly grateful.
Our last stop for the day on our drive was at Ahu Tonjariki. This is where we will be coming in the morning for the sunrise. There are 15 majestic Moai’s standing side by side and was so impressive that we went in to take some afternoon photo’s even though we were coming back in the morning … lighting on the faces of the Moai were much better in the afternoon. What a site!
We then headed back to Hanga Roa, the main town, for supper before seeing the sunset at Ahu Vai Uri. Great supper and a better sunset tonight over Ahu Vai Uri.
Early to bed tonight as we were getting up at 6:45am to head out for the sunrise photo’s.